Sunday, October 13, 2013
Trekking in superbly Happy Valley in the High Atlas
It was originally a choice between the Tour du Mont Blanc and a much shorter trek in the High Atlas Mountains in southern Morroco. As is often the case, I opted for the less familiar and little known Morrocan trek. I was quickly removed from my comfort zone in Marrakech. The small Riad Imilchil introduced me to thick stone walls, archways, inner atriums, lattice windows, and geometric tiles; not to mention roof terraces, mint tea and congenial hospitality.
A spider web of small alleys took us to the main square, Place Jemaa El Fna, which was guarded by the mosque, but alive with snake charmers, monkey owners, and water carriers. Alongside were the familiar souks and later that night, the food market stalls and local musicians and dancers. We spent the afternoon visiting the Jardin Majorelle, a tropical oasis, which has been restored by Yves Saint Laurent.
Early next morning we set out in the comfort of our very own minivan to drive south. It was fun to stop and explore the markets at Azilal, where it was possible to buy anything from carpenty, beds to fresh herbs and goat meat. I enjoyed trying to mingle in with the locals, and starting to strip down my daily needs. We travelled to Ait Bougoumez and arrived in our traditional gite in the village of Imelghas at 1760m, in time for another rooftop sunset. We enjoyed the first of many traditional meals cooked by our trusty team. Lots of cumin and coriander, fresh vegies, mostly aubergines, courgettes, and potatoes, and some tasty lamb! I really started to appreciate the local knowledge and organisational capacities of our Berber guide, Jamaal.
For three days we trekked from the fertile valleys through a large gorge and up into the hills. We camped half way up to the pass at 2700 m. As we walked, 6 mules carried our packs, tents and 2 large cooking and dining tents, complete with utensils and table and chairs! I have so much respect for these calm and strong animals. No wonder they are the most valued possessions of the local Berber people.
We stopped for a freshly cooked lunch each day, often in shady orchards. I loved seeing shepherds with their mixed flocks of sheep and goats.
Most of all, I loved the combination of physical challenge and the space and beauty to just quieten my mind and enjoy the small and simple things around me. I really must do this again, and regularly...
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