game to cook pheasant

Our shared home cooking exploration continues - this time in my Oxford kitchen, with its limited cookware and preparation spaces. Winter here is game season and butchers in the Covered Market have plentiful supplies of venison, rabbit, pheasant and quail. You can choose to buy these animals fresh with fur and feathers, or prepared for home cooking. We selected a pheasant this weekend and I scanned the internet for suitable recipes. Mike Robinson convinced me with his simple recipe and video instructions. Roast pheasant with lemon and rosemary - an easy Italian style of cooking with olive oil, fresh herbs, garlic and lemon... All as easy as promised and the taste was impressive...a dark and dense flesh amidst a unique arrangement of bones... all made for an interesting exploration. So good, that I am keen to try it again!

waiting for a diagnosis

This is emerging as an interesting experience from inside the healthcare system. First of all there were conflicting potential diagnoses between German and English doctors, which in fact would have required almost opposite treatment. I was then unsure as to how to enter the NHS - having used the emergency department in Berlin, I was not sure whether to go to emergency or my GP when I returned to the UK... I think I made the wrong choice in going to my GP but in the end I got to the Trauma Clinic which is where I had to have a repeat xray and eventually I was referred for an MRI. This is the golden key to my diagnosis as it shows what is happening inside my knee joint - I want to know the status of my ligaments and my meninscus! But then, the comedy continues - because the registrar did not note my request for an MRI as urgent, I was told I would have to wait 4-6 weeks.... not happy... hobble back to the trauma clinic... ignored by the doctors...only the nurse would talk to me and interpret a message to the doctor... eventually she agreed to call and ask for my request to be urgent...So later that day I was offered a cancellation for the following day. I was told to make a follow up appointment in 3 days by the doctor, the clinic administrator could only make it in 5 days and the MRI technician told me it normally takes 10 days for data to be transferred approx 500m up the hill! This is despite the fact that there are posters everywhere advertising the new online medical record system! This is a challenging time for me. Every day I am involved in helping healthcare clinicians to better understand and use recent research in their healthcare practice. Almost 10 years ago, I was in a team that reviewed all the scientific evidence about whether joints should be rested or mobilised early after injury - the literature is fairly unanimously behind early movement... Yet I am stuck limiting my early movement in fear of the first not so nice potential diagnosis... Stuck in a rut again!

slippery tram tracks in Berlin

we had enjoyed a lovely chinese fondue, which was such a pleasant surprise for me and we were heading out to meet some friends for a friday night drink. I was given the sparkling new road bike with a warning about the tram tracks. It was an amazing experience as with the dual suspension I could barely touch the peddles but off we went - safely across the first set of tram tracks - I felt a small slide on the third and typically it would seem, I panicked and did the wrong thing - I tried to accelerate over the metal but the obvious happened - my front wheel dropped into the gap and jammed itself there - stopping me short and twisting me off onto the hard asphalt. Luckily I protected the bike as it fell but my right knee took the total brunt of the fall. I can only be thankful that there was not a tram in sight as I was totally unable to move and a bit spacy - I knew my knee was not going to be good. It seemed like loads of people ran over from the Yum Cha Heroes Restaurant opposite and most of them were able to talk to me in English! So it was a slow hobble home, a painful indoor weekend and a nervous flight back with my crutches and long leg splint. now 5 days later, I am still hobbling and waiting to resolve the medical dichotomy of possible diagnoses between two different countries...

a more glamorous Girl with a Dragon Tattoo

I loved the book and the original Swedish film, which captured the complexity of this amazing story. So many convoluted themes about politics, sex, power, love, addiction and all those dark side of life shadows. I really enjoyed the faithful representation and no frills acting of the Swedish movie.I was unsure as to whether Hollywood would trivialise or typecast this movie. But I was pleasantly surprised - Daniel Craig is cool and calm as Mikael Blomkvist and Rooney Mara portrays Lisbeth Salander with commitment. The whole cast is a litle more glamorous in their dress and the sets are lavish and contrasted by the amazing Swedish scenary. The photography and music create the suspense and the mood which means that the whole film is an emotionally harrowing journey... again..

Silence is art in The Artist

When a film has consistently received rave reviews and is sold out on Sunday night in Oxford, it really does suggest something special. Having never seen a complete silent movie, I was open to a new experience - although I did not realise at the outset that so much of the movie, The Artist, would really be silent, and it would all be shot in black and white. Somehow it was like the opposite of the sensory overload of opera and I was able to totally relax and enjoy the experience, without having to think about words or meaning. I even gave up trying to lip read - trusting that the important text would be summarised for me. And seeing the movie in black and white enabled me to better appreciate the shadows and textures. I could experience the real beauty and charisma of 1920's style and fashion - somewhat more universal for men but totally stunning for women - I loved the short curls, head hugging bonnets, long skirts and slender heels. The romance happened almost by surprise, as did the tragic turn of events. So it was the ultimate challenge of personal pride and commitment to another, played out across time. Words were not necessary as emotions were rife. The tension was real and occasionally punctuated by the humorous antics of the rather cute little dog, Uggie. So, at the end of the day, I must agree that silence can accentuate the art of acting. It was a pleasant retreat to enjoy the simplicity of a good story.

an Iron Lady?

I can honestly say that I have had no personal experience of Margaret Thatcher's politics. However I have observed the impact of her decisions on the UK and I can hear that the country is still very divided in their opinions about her - which in itself says quite a lot about her longstanding influence. So it was with an open mind that I came to see the recently released film, The Iron Lady. The cinema was full to overcrowding. I can only say my reaction was mixed. Meryl Streep is a truly amazing actress - she portrayed the subtle changes of aging in movement, expression and positioning. I really did forget I was watching Meryl. Jim Broadbent is also a very convincing Dennis Thatcher - portraying a calm, supportive and sensitive husband. But I am still at a loss as to why this film was made... and its timing. Cynically, I wonder if there is a desire to be the first of many, when she really does die. I hope not - but I cannot help thinking that neither she nor her close family would really enjoy watching this film right now. Maggie's rise to the top in a very male chauvanist political world was truly impressive but this film does little to investigate how and why this happens - more than a happy coincidence, I think. I felt disappointed at the superficial way it portrayed her rise to the top and eventual personal abuse of power. I don't feel like I am any wiser about the difficult and disastrous decisions she made. How can one really compare the massive costs and benefits of the Falklands war with the closure of so many Welsh mines and the impact it had on the surrounding towns? There is also a terrible, tragically ironic split between the smart, educated and erudite lady that she once was and the dementing lady she is now. I am not sure whether we are meant to pity her for this dramatic loss of self and power - I am not sure she would want this - and I also wonder whether it is a small political back handed slap from her opponents - you cannot have and keep it all! It is also not clear whether her 'hallucinations' of being with Dennis are a beautiful escape from reality for her or a challenge for her daughter to cope with as she tries to maintain her mother's function. I wonder whether the now dementing Maggie was actually content to live in the past, although I fear we were meant to feel her deep sadness at her loss. Finally, I am not sure what this does for the social image of dementia - at one level the current Maggie seems cold, distant and disconnected from her past - which I think preys on all our deepest fears about not wanting to dement as we age. However if I could just live happily with the positive memories, it might not be so bad...

New Years Eve 2011

We experienced a seriously significant change in climate over the time period of 3 hours just after lunch on New Years Eve. We stopped for a quick lunch at the Autogrill on the coast just before Genoa at 12 noon. The skies and ocean were beautifully blue and the temperature was around 16' as we drove away from the coast, sadly. We were lucky as most of Piemonte retained its blue skies and we could see some of the Alps on the left as we drove north into the clouds!

By 2pm it was totally cloudy as we drove through Domodossola - hoping to catch the auto train to Brig... we were on time for the 14.17 departure but the queue suggested we would not make it on to the train - so we decided to drive over the Simplon Pass. It was raining as we started out so I was a bit disappointed I may not see the full vista... but by 1700m the snow had set in and the road was completly white,as was everything else!

The pass at 2005m was a total whiteout and it seemed as if we were in the middle of nowhere in our warm and reliable A5. Thankfully the winter tyres and the ABS braking were a brilliant combination, so we could relax and enjoy the slow drive down the other side. White on white with white extras...

We saw almost hidden houses and cars. The snow continued into Brig, where the train line emerged. As the road was closed before Gopelstein, where we would normally have caught the train to Kandersteg (this time a 200km road detour), we were very happy to hear that the train was travelling direct to Kandersteg from Brig.

We waited for an hour in the snow and finally drove on board the train to take us across the snowy hills and through the mountain to emerge at the picture postcard village of Kandersteg. It was a very short drive to the Meike's grandmother's house where we were able to relax with good company, food and wine. It was such a lovely house to enjoy a raclette and watch the infamous 'Dinner for one' before we celebrated the new year of 2012

understanding olives

I have developed a great respect for olives, their trees and their oil. In particular, for the Taggiasca olive, which is grown between Albenga and Monaco from sea level up to 600m. It is a tiny olive with a great nutty flavour and a beuatiful almost green coloured oil.

I have become accustomed to the way they are grown on terraces all the way up the steep slopes of Liguria. It seems that in the past, beautiful stone walls were built to create small flat terraces from which people could tend the trees. These terraces then create grassy areas underneath the silvery green of the olive trees - it seems their leaves really reflect a silvery light in the winter sunshine.

There is a busy production time during winter when the olives are harvested and quickly milled for their oil. It seems as if the harvesting methods have not changed for generations - large nets are placed on the ground at the base of the trees and along the flat terraces and roads - and then the trees are shaken so that the olives fall into the nets.

These olives are then collected - whether they are green or black - and then fed into the many local mills that exist in every small village. It seems that large stones are used to crush the olives and then they are pressed to release their valuable oil - which is collected in a thin golden trickle.

I feel so lucky to have seen this process in action in Ezzio's mill in Poggialto - and appreciative to Domenica for giving me a bottle of totally fresh olive oil - direct from the large vats collectd the day before...

Villa Nobel

I didn't realise that Alfred Nobel lived in an amazing villa on the waterfront at San Remo...and that now this Villa Nobel and its gardens are maintained as a museum. A short visit was more educational than I had expected. Although born in Sweden, he lived a truly European life, and this villa was his last of many homes. It seems that he was both a scientist and a businessman. His scientific career was focussed around developing explosives. In 1867, he discovered that mixing nitroglycerine with silica would create a malleable paste called dynamite. He used this discovery to open factories in many countries, such that at his death in 1896 he had 93 factories in 20 countries producing 66,500 tons of dynamite.

There was a big emphasis on dynamite's use in mining and drilling tunnels - his scientific discoveries were considered crucial for the creation of the Gottard tunnel - a 13 km tunnel in the middle of Switzerland, built in the late 1800's and today a crucial transport link through Switzerland.

In the museum, we saw his last will and testament in which he used his amassed wealth in the creation of Nobel prizes; for the person who had conferred the greatest benefit for mankind in physics, chemistry, physiology, literature, economics (since 1965) and peace. We also saw massive boards documenting the winners and their nationality in all categories since 1901 - truly inspirational.

And outside in the adjoining public park, there are so many different types of palms, reminescent of my house in Morningside, but on a much grander scale. It is so impressive to see so many this far north...

Porto Maurizio at sunset

Just east of Imperia along the coast lies a most wonderful cape, fully covered in houses around an old abbey. Porto Maurizio was an important hill town in times gone by and when you take time to wander the streets, there are many interesting stories to discover. But it's most impressive presence is seen at sunset - when the pastel house colours glow in the golden light.

And the interesting thing is that is looks almost as dramatic from the other side after sunset, when the sky turns dark red.

San Remo Golf

The Golf Club San Remo seems to be one of my favourites for so many reasons. It is difficult to believe that as you are driving there along steep and windy roads clinging to the edge of seemingly steep cliffs that there will be enough flat land to play golf. Well a small correction is required - there is enough land but not so much is actually flat. The first 8 holes climb steadily uphill so that you are playing directly beside the motorway and then it winds down and slightly back up again before you roll back down to the clubhouse- snuggled in the side of the valley. The actual challenges are that every fairway has a safer side but I have watched helplessly as my ball bounced off the steep wall above the fairway, across the fairway and down the steep slopes on the other side towards the fairway below!!!

Nothing is guaranteed so it does make the game quite challenging and it is important to have lots of spare balls. The trees are stunning - everywhere stately eucalypts, some with great sea views - I almost feel a pang of homesickness (wherever home is).

They are complmented by silvery olive trees along every fairway. Several years ago, we were there when they were collecting the olives, and I colleceted a few of my own into my water bottle to preserve. This year most of the olives had been collected, so there were only a few remaining.

And I loved it when I found a golden mimosa - some were in bloom and others not quite yet - what a treat. The climate is a definite advantage - both times we played this year were in full sunshine, 16' and we played in short sleeve shirts - this is helped by the extra activity of walking upwards - but we were able to enjoy long days for the northern hemisphere at this time of the year and enjoy the sun setting over the Mediterranean Sea.

We could play until 5pm and then enjoy the sun setting as we completed the last few holes. And the final bonus is the super traditional club house with perfectly clean and well maintained locker rooms and a stunning sitting room around the bar. That is where all the beautiful and fit people meet!

Cycling in the mountains

I was never that sure about cycling in the mountains - the roads just seemed to curl up forever and I could not imagine the enjoyment in this... Several years ago I did try some small ascents along the coast and found these easier than I expected - but I did get a bit nervous flying down hill and was keen to keep slow and in control - maybe it is about knowing and understanding my bike... Anyway this time I decided that it was time to try it - the challenge was that once I cycled downhill from Poggialto there was only one way back up and I knew this would be tough at the end of whatever else I had done...

So we started our first ride by parking the car somewhat down the valley in Chiusavecchia. From there it was upwards through 3 small villages; first of all Gazzelli, then Chiusanico and finally to Torria. This was a great start because the road actually levelled out in each village and I was able to stop and take a few quick shots. And then the next day we decioded to start in Poggialto at 550m. I was determined to enjoy the views as I headed downhill - I seemed to be more comfortable and confident on my bike and although I tried to use the low handle bars these did not feel at all comfortable - so I persisted with braking with my fingers and I did suffer a few pains in the base of my thumb!

We headed downhill to San Lazzaro Reale at 150m and then retraced our downhill steps from the previous day. We headed up towards the Colle San Bartolomeo at 615m via Cesio - once up there it was just a gentle climb. I found similarities to running and the need to find my rhythm that was sustainable - the big breakthrough for me was learning to sit back on my saddle and use my gluteal muscles to propel me up - these muscles seem to be particularly lazy for me as I have found out in my pilates class - but on these hills there was no choice - so with so much muscle power to activate I was able to keep climbing while chatting... in fact I surprised myself at how easy it really was. And the views were continually stunning - small villages clinging to ridges, occasional glimpses of the sea and olive trees everywhere...

So when it came to cycling down to Aurigo, I calculated that I had climbed almost 650m - we then had to drop almost 400m and climb back another 120m to Poggialto - but it was a good feeling making it back 'home'. So much so, that I agreed to do it all again - going up a different valley this time - starting at Candeasco at 250m and cycling through Caravonica - 100m less in climb but quite a bit steeper and the second time I cycled back up into Poggialto, I was able to strangely enjoy cycling so close to the olive trees!

a German Christmas in Italy

This year we decided to extend our gastronomic experience to preparing goose for Christmas. Previously we had prepared rabbit in a local olive and herb casserole, but this had lost its challenge - it was so easy that we could prepare it from memory now... Given that goose is traditional german fare we had to ensure there was space in the car for the esky, which we had bought in California. Lucky there was space, so we visitied a local Toom supermarket just near Darmstadt to buy a frozen 4.2 kg bio goose. Of course we had to buy the accompanying knoedel(potato dumplings), rotkraut(red cabbage suaerkraut) and the magical herb beifuss.... It felt a little strange carrying german food into Italy, but we had an important experiment to undertake.

There was divided opinion across the internet in both english and german recipes about whether to start cooking the goose at high temperature and then cool it down or to keep it long and low... So in the end we decided to follow the very simple recipe of Hans Haas, preparing the stuffing and keeping it low and slow... To everyone's surprise it was a stunning success - so much goose and so moist and tasty, a great gravy and superb accompaniments. Markus was also very lucky to wear his australian santa apron, thanks to my sister - it looked great and matched our christmas decorations...

cycling along the Mediterranean coast

There are not too many places where you can cycle for over 20 km directly by the water without disruption and on a well maintained relatively flat cycle path. Originally trains ran along the coast of the Italian Riveria giving passengers an uninterrupted sea view. Over the last 10 years they have been busy tunnelling and redirecting this train line slightly further inland. The big bonus for cyclists is that the actual rail tracks have been removed and a two direction cycle path and adjoining walking path created. This track begins at the San Lorenzo station which is now up for sale.

It continues curving around 2 large bays to San Remo. In some places the road is at the same level and at others it is way elevated above us. In fact it is virtually hidden and it is only important if you want to leave the cycle track to clinb up the 3 small capes overlooking the bays.

On our first day we gently climbed up to the church at Poggio, with great views inland to the deserted village of Bussana Vecchio. Later in the week, we slowly climbed up to Cipressa and came back to the cycle path to extend our journey on the road beyond San Remo to climb up the stunning Capo di Nero.

We wound our way between some stunning houses and on top enjoyed views all the way west to France. It was a great cycle back down into San Remo - via the old Russian church to the central Piazza Columba - pity we missed lunch at our favourite Pizza shop - but we made up for it with superb freshly made ice cream. Lucky it was enough to energise us to cycle back to the car into the wind...

an italian christmas lunch

We began the day with a quick cycle along the waterfront and we were back in time to host an apperitif for Peter and Katia...we enjoyed a quick catch up of the last few months over a little bubbly and then it was just a wander down the narrow alleys - carruci in italian - to Olgas restaurant, which is really the front room of their house. Today it was almost full; 3 other large tables of between 6-10 people, mostly in families - but we were welcomed like old friends, with a quick chat to all in the large kitchen before taking our places at the smallest table. There were at least 3 antipasti dishes on the table and another 10 to come - it is such a delight tasting and guessing and now I can recognise a few favourites; asparagus wrapped in ham and vegetables in olive oil. Here there is no need for a menu or even an explanation. With a little careful observation, it is always possible to see what is coming out to the table slightly ahead of us... I think the snails were the last antipasti to come out before the 3 primas - or fresh pasta dishes. This time I had paced myself to be able to enjoy the 3 secondi dishes, a great combination of wild boar, rabbit and lamb - no doubt all locally sourced. So we then had a small rest before the cheese board came out, followed by some fresh fruit - later we found out that the mandarins were fresh from the coast at Diano Marina. As usual we were all offered coffee and grappa - I chose my favourite limoncello and remembered to not drink it like cordial.... Domenica came and sat with us at the end and we had an interseting slightly political chat - o to better understand italian - but at least the italians give you so many more cues with their facial and body language - so that with a few words easily recognised, I could get a feel for the conversation... In all a wonderful relaxed and sumptious christmas lunch.

A Mediterranean culture shock

We had driven through rain and snow in Switzerland, there was a short glimpse of blue sky on the southern side of the Gottard tunnel, but most of the drive south through Piemonte in Italy was grey and boringly gloomy... but then we reached the coast just near Genoa - the clouds cleared as if by magic, we saw giant blue skies, deep blue water, and all the trees had leaves on them again - I was ecstatic appreciating the variety of palm trees, my favourite eucalyptus trees and shimmeringly silver olive trees... It is strange how much you can forget in a year - cause I vaguely remember a similar reaction last year...

it continued with an appreciation of the small villages clinging to ridges and cliffs everywhere - always surrounding a small church. I recognised the random arrangment of different coloured houses all together; they were all variations of yellow, terracotta or olive green - mixed together in random sequences but looking stunning in each village.

I noticed that most of the window shutters were a dark green, with some occasional old wooden ones offerring a visual complement. And the range of tiny cars fitting in everywhere was such a pleasant reminder of a very different way of life.Finally, it was great to enjoy an elongated sunny afternoon by the harbour of Imperia at Oneglia, walking out along the harbour wall, looking back over the city.

Then it was up the winding road to the wonderful village of Poggialto.

escaping from 2011

It was Friday 23rd December and we had arranged flights from Berlin and London to arrive in Frankfurt within minutes of each other - so nice to meet up on our individual paths to the train station...so it was a quick journey to pick up the car, drive to Messel and pack everything up - 2 road bikes, 2 golf bags, our travel bags, some christmas decorations and lots of bags of important things to fit in between the spaces...an hour later we were driving south on the A5 - heading towards our favourite Landgasthof Hotel Schwanen in Bad Bellingen - almost the last German village before the Swiss border. We had stayed here on our way south this time last year and it seems fun to establish a great tradition - the quaint and cosy atmosphere, maintained since 1887 and complemented by excellent quality food, with a special focus on 'wild' food. We had arrived quite early for us, so we had time to wander down to the local christmas market, established in the front garden of the Winzerstueble Sonnenstueck, same as last year - except there was no snow this year. A burning tree stump provided a warm invitation to enjoy both gluhwein and beer, and we had fun starting our wine purchases... And then back at the Swan, and similar to last year, I ordered from the brilliant 3 course Tagesmenu to fully enjoy the local specialties. Again, I was totally impressed with the presentation, tastes and textures of it all. The starter was composed of 3 tiny dishes presented on a long rectangular plate; a creme brulee atop a warm foie gras, a rotkohl cappucino and a simple smoked salmon with horseradish cream sauce. The wild schnitzel was presented with lots of tasty vegies and fried balls of mashed potato. Finally, I was thankful that the cheese board was appropriately small, but extremely tasty - a great start to my full appreciation of european cheeses... I loved this way of starting our festive holiday and even enjoyed our early breakfast the next day before we set off to drive the final 500km to our favourite hideaway in the olive growing hills behind the Italian Riveria.